您现在的位置: 首页     >    时装发布    >    Suzy Menkes专栏

#SuzyPFW: Celine’s Discreet Charm Of The Bourgeoisie

作者:Suzy Menkes 编辑:张一杰 时间:2019年3月05日
内容来源:VOGUE时尚网  图片来源:VOGUE国际网站:英国

文章导读

Hedi Slimane kills off street style and brings back polite dressing with a twist

敬请期待中文版

The model who opened the Celine Autumn/Winter 2019 show arrived on the runway via a mirrored dressing room that floated down from the sky

Gorunway

She is nearly 50 years young – this Celine woman stepping out from an overhead mirrored box wearing a neat jacket, a scarf tied in a pussy bow and culottes – that very French divided skirt from the 1970s.

Designer Hedi Slimane scissoring street style off the fashion map was one of those moments of change – even if it was achieved by a throwback to the 1972 Luis Bu?uel masterpiece movie The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie.

Celine Autumn/Winter 2019

Gorunway

Oversized T-shirts, puffer jackets and baggy jeans will go into the dustbin of fashion history, if Hedi has judged correctly the new fashion mood. Yet he was the one pretending to be unsure as he received compliments backstage and I asked him if, after his years at Saint Laurent showing sexy young girls on the edge of society, he was coming back to more sophisticated Parisian style.

“I don’t know if its sexy – and you can play growing up too,” Hedi answered obliquely. Although Sydney Toledano, Chairman and CEO of the LVMH Fashion Group companies, could not hide his relief that this new turn for Celine was eminently saleable with its plethora of coats and jackets worn with almost every outfit and in fabrics from furry to leather to wool.

Celine Autumn/Winter 2019

Gorunway

The significance of this change is that it comes like a rallying cry of the bourgeoisie at a moment when the French uprising enters its third month and middle-class stability is under attack from a large group of the disaffected, who call themselves ‘gilets jaunes’ (yellow vests). Yet another demonstration is set for this weekend.

What exactly was Slimane offering to combat rocky times? Bear in mind that Celine was founded as an accessories business and its success in the world of clothing only came when outgoing designer Phoebe Philo rallied a 21st-century vision of fashion from a woman’s point of view.

With little back history, Slimane turned to his deep knowledge of and experience with Saint Laurent. At that house, the current Saint Laurent designer, Anthony Vaccerello, focuses on seductive evening clothes. So, Celine could certainly fill the daytime space.

All the complexities of designer merry-go-round in the fashion world are of little interest to the general public. But clothes that genuinely reflect the lives of women today, who are mostly more at work than play, matter to what we might still call the ‘middle classes’.

What were they being offered by Celine? Nothing so new, but much to find useful: high-quality separates (as they were once known), made to last. These clothes, therefore, are the absolute opposite of throw-away fast fashion.

Celine Autumn/Winter 2019

Gorunway

Slimane had the sense to throw in knee-high boots and jeans to offer a note of what can barely now be described as rebellious. But mostly he just sent out the 1970s look, although the weight and construction of it might be quite different today.

Having served eager Celine clients, maybe next time he can add a dollop of 2019 into the mix.

转载声明

本内容系VOGUE时尚网原创或经官方授权编译转载,严禁以任何形式或方法转载或使用,违者追究法律责任。

将本文分享到

本文相关品牌

本文相关单品

你可能还会喜欢

更多相关网站内容

关注官方微信
开启互动之旅

将文章:#SuzyPFW: Celine’s Discreet Charm Of The Bourgeoisie
喜欢到个人空间我的喜欢中。

喜欢理由:

喜欢成功

经验: +2 , 金币 +2

您的喜欢已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜欢列表,
请点击"个人空间" "喜欢"

已经喜欢

 

您的喜欢已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜欢列表,
请点击"个人空间" "喜欢"

菲律宾申博红太阳娱乐 菲律宾申博在线充值 菲律宾申博娱乐现金网 申博官网代理登入 菲律宾申博网址导航登入
利来国际客户端下载最高占成 好运来电子平台网 博狗娱乐代理登录 678彩最高占成 财富开元棋牌
永利皇宫咨询端下载 博e百在线充值 华盛顿开户平台 澳门24小时天天千万免费彩金大派送 88娱乐场最高佣金
申博游戏网登入 九州游戏线路测试 申博开户网登入 升级版如意坊娱乐 百万发开户平台最高占成